Archive for Malta

St. Paul’s Grotto and Manikata

Posted in Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 6, 2007 by scotttraveler

It seems that no matter where you go in Malta, you are sure to see some Saint or another memorialized in some statue, shrine, or placard.  I saw this Mary and Jesus in the suburbs of Mdina near the castle and thought that they would make a fine photo.  The tour guides and the tour books all describe the Maltese as “fervently Catholic,” but I have noticed quite a few “under aged” young ladies at the night clubs.  It seems that the drinking age is, well, there isn’t one.  I’ve seen young women as young as 15 or 16 “hanging out” and dancing along with the rest of the 20, 30, and 40 year olds.  What was it they said about the Catholic school girls in America?  I begin to wonder if the stereotype doesn’t have some base in truth?

Next on the stop was the Museum of Roman Antiquities.  I only took a few shots because as we pulled up and parked it suddenly started raining quite heavily.  I tucked the camera away and did not take it out again at this stop.  The ruins, of the Roman age have been weathered but some that were not exposed survived well.  A large tile mosaic floor shows life scenes from the Roman times two thousand years ago.

By the time we got to this Cathedral, I asked the tour guide when were we going to stop at St. Paul’s Grotto?  She looked surprised and said that we already passed it.  I was a bit upset, I had been wanting to come to see the Grotto for many years.  It is believed to have been where Paul lived (or was imprisoned by the Romans according to some accounts) and wrote some books of the New Testament.

She said that she didn’t think anyone would want to stop there because of the rain.  Argh!  Now I really have another reason to return to Malta.  The Grotto and the countless number of archaeological treasures that are here, I plan to come back for two weeks on my next visit – but definitely during the summer so that I can enjoy the beaches as well.

I looked at this Cathedral and had no interest.  As the tour guide went on about its importance I just sulked.  So, I don’t even know the name of it today.  I do remember one interesting tidbit of information that I gleaned from the tour guide’s speech.  She said that to confuse the Devil, two clocks were kept; one clock had the correct time and the other was a decoy.  I can’t remember why it was important that Satan couldn’t tell time, but it seemed to be important enough to buy two clocks instead of one.  Sure enough, you can see that the clocks are off by about 4 hours and 15 minutes.

As we worked our way to the west coast of Malta, Manikata finally came into view beyond the rows of produce that were growing in the fields.  Malta’s mild climate provides for growing opportunities year round and our tour guide told us that Malta is self-sufficient in the production of food.  Only specialty items that cannot be grown here (like bananas) are imported.  But, Malta’s food exports more than equal the imports and the island is a farmer’s treasure.

Manikata seems to be a thriving tourist area, especially for those who want a little peace and quiet compared to Valletta or the east coast.  Manikata also has sand beaches and I did notice a few hotels under construction.

As we travelled back overland to the northeastern part of the island, we came to Saint Paul’s Bay where it appeared there was a thriving boating, fishing, and sailing businesses.  The map says that there is a nature preserve at the end of the bay (just off frame to the left)), but it seemed hard to believe as the area was so developed.

As we traveled east along the north shore of Malta, we came across so many little fortresses.  They reminded me of the forts of Bahrain, Oman, and in the Persian Gulf.  I tried to imagine the soldier guards as they watched every day for ships who may be coming to prey on the coast of Malta.  There are so many similarities with our soldiers today.  One wonders if war will ever end?

Heading to Pembroke (just west of Sliema and Valletta) I took this photo and at the left edge of the frame, out on the finger of land, you can see another little guard fortress.  I’ll definitely come back to Malta, but the next time, it will be in the summer time!

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Saint Paul’s Cathedral

Posted in Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 6, 2007 by scotttraveler

I continued my exploration of Mdina, walking down the narrow streets and alleyways.  I enjoyed the restaurants, cafes, shopping, and the historical sites.  I felt like a big kid in a candy store exploring through this historic treasure.  Near the center of Mdina, I finally came to the famous Saint Peter’s Cathedral.  It was built on the former site of the Roman Governor Plubius’ residence after he converted to Christianity following Paul’s preaching to him.

The Blessed Virgin, Mother of God Chapel was formerly at this site, but it fell into disuse during the Muslim period.  The Chapel was rebuilt during the Norman period and re-dedicated to Saint Paul.  It was destroyed in the 1683 earthquake and this ‘new’ St. Paul’s Cathedral was built to replace it.  It was designed by Lorenzo Gafa and constructed from 1697 to 1702.  Despite the earlier destruction in the 1683 earthquake, some of the historic paintings and frescos were saved and included in the new design.

The Cathedral was designed in the Baroque style and as you can see in the photo below (by Jean-Christophe Benoist), that Gafa did an amazing job creating a beautiful Cathedral.   I have seen many Cathedrals and some are a bit “overdone,” but this Cathedral seemed to have a nice balance of beauty, art, and heavenly influence.  I’ve left the photo of the ceiling of the Cathedral in larger than normal size so that you can click and zoom on it.

In the courtyard just outside of the Cathedral, I did some people watching and some shopping.  I found that the shops near here had the best post card shopping.  Inside of one of the post card shops (just off of the left edge of the photo below), I struck up a conversation with a nice Maltese vendor.  She answered a lot of my questions about Malta.  It seems that both Maltese and English are spoken on the island and most everyone is bi-lingual.  A British man joined into the conversation and commented that he wanted to immigrate to Malta because he liked it so much.  The Maltese woman asked if he was married and when he said that he was not, she commented that he should find himself a Maltese wife and settle down here.

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Bacchus Tavern

Posted in Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 6, 2007 by scotttraveler

I couldn’t hardly believe my eyes: a tavern in the middle of a castle?  This, I will have to check out.  I made my way to the Bacchus Restaurant and Bar, following the small sign that I saw in an obscure alley way.  The establishment is housed inside an old gunpowder magazine that was built by Grand Master Fra Martino  Redin between 1657 and 1660.  The magazine (now tavern) was built between the original Roman settlement walls dating to the 1st Century and the Arab wall dating to the 10th Century.

Having a cold beer inside of a an old and historic building inside of a castled-city just sounded divine.  I worked my way to the restaurant and found it the decorations to be neat and rustic.

There were not many restaurant patrons in the early afternoon – but the bar had a lively crowd.  I settled in and decided to try one of the home brews.

Later, I sat in the courtyard and struck up a conversation with some German travelers.  I was entranced with the idea of “hanging out” in such an old building, they seemed more interested in the beer than the history!

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